I left my heart in Skagtown....

Skagway, Alaska - isolated, eclectic, friendly, laid-back, scenic, historic.... how to best describe this little town?

photo courtesy of skagwaystreetcar.com

Last week friend, Shirley, mother-in-law, Ellen and myself journeyed to the far north. Sis-in-law Elda, along with husband Vern, were our generous hosts for the week. We jetted to Juneau then managed to squeeze aboard a small puddle jumper airplane (said flight being cancelled due to weather resulting in an overnight stay in Juneau) to Skagway in 37 knot winds during which my mantra was, 'I will NOT lose my lunch, I will NOT lose my lunch'.

Once there, we enjoyed a relaxing week in a town of 900 year round residents which swells to over 12,000 on days when up to 4 cruise ships dock for the day. We've all seen pictures of the sidewalks in New York City, crammed with pedestrians. The sidewalks in Skagway look similar. Needless to say, we avoided town on those days.


Nicknamed Gateway to the Yukon, Skagway has an interesting past. The majority of the 100,000 men and women, hoping to strike it rich during the Klondike Gold rush of 1897-1898 docked in Skagway or Dyea before setting off on the 500 mile difficult trek to the gold fields, so difficult that only 30,000 to 40,000 prospectors even completed the journey. 'Some realized how difficult the trek ahead would be on route to the gold fields, and chose to stay behind to supply goods and services to miners. Within weeks, stores, saloons, and offices lined the muddy streets of Skagway. The population was estimated at 8,000 residents during the spring of 1898 with approximately 1,000 prospective miners passing through town each week. By June 1898, with a population between 8,000 and 10,000, Skagway was the largest city in Alaska.' (Wikipedia) (photo courtesy of Jerre.com)

This marks the beginning of the famous Chilkoot trail. I was shocked at the steep, uneven trail. It was mandatory that each prospector had to bring a year's supply of food with him to the gold fields. Many had to carry this ton of supplies in stages over the grueling passes. I read somewhere that tens of thousands horses and mules perished when they slipped in mud and snow and fell over cliffs to their deaths.  Animal lover that I am, I call that animal cruelty.

 Old prospector's cemetery in Skagway

The White Pass Yukon route railroad, only one of two narrow gauge railroads still in existence, attracts tourism as well. We enjoyed the 3.5 hour trip and saw a brown bear,  mountain goats and incredible scenery.

photo courtesy of Alaska.org.tw

 Yes, that's spit coming out my mouth. One is not a true sourdough until one has spit in the Yukon River! 

 The mighty Yukon near Whitehorse, Canada

 Vibrant fireweed

and beautiful delphiniums seen in many yards.

Life in rural, SE Alaska is appealing.  However, the isolation would be a challenge. Vern and Elda must add in a day or two on both ends of their trips 'outside' because they may be delayed due to weather. There is a road out of Skagway, north to Canada, which periodically closes due to weather. If they cannot leave via small plane because of weather, they can take a 7 hour ferry ride to Juneau but may be weathered in there as well.  As an aside, I was impressed at the attitude of those who, along with us, could not leave Juneau that evening because of the fog and low clouds. Many had large Costco looking carts piled with food provisions, all of which needed to be refrigerated or frozen. The airline took it all in stride, assuring their passengers that they would  keep their food cold. No one seemed unduly distressed or angry. It's all part and parcel of living in SE Alaska.

The weather cooperated for our return flight to Juneau on even a smaller puddle jumper and  we enjoyed the incredible scenery out our windows. Glaciers, small and large, are common sights. Alaska did not fail to woo and charm us. It's vast expanse of untouched wilderness lures one and makes one think ahead to another trip to the great north.